One Man's Paradise

Chilkoot Trail: Day 4

In the summer of 1899 the White Pass & Yukon Route (WP&YR) railway arrived at Lake Bennett. Almost immediately the Chilkoot Trail was abandoned in favor of this newer, faster and cheaper way of moving goods and people into the interior.

Chilkoot Pofile Day 4

Another day of splendid weather, cold but clear. Well, cold. That’s relative, just below freezing. Nothing compared to what it will be in a few months (-40°C and colder). Smaller creeks and puddles have just a thin coating of ice.

A face in the ice.

A face in the ice.

I am in no rush today. Not sure how far I will push. Near Deep Lake I run into a major blueberry patch. They are as big as small grapes and so tasty. Where are the bears? I see none, so I have a healthy breakfast. They taste so much better out here…

With every step towards Lake Lindeman the trail becomes more lovely. Pine trees and a deep gorge, open views on the surrounding mountains, skeletons of boats. Within 3 hours I arrive at Lake Lindeman. What a beautiful location. A solid cabin invites to stay. There is plenty of drift  wood on the shore. Wouldn’t be hard to have a sizzling stove going in no time. Time for lunch. I am feeling up for more so I keep walking.

Bare Loon Lake, British Columbia

Bare Loon Lake, British Columbia

Passing several smaller lakes and a trapper cabin the trail slowly turns sandy and wide. In the summer there must be traffic by day visitors coming up with the train. The train service has stopped a few weeks ago for the season, so all is quiet today.

I arrive at Lake Bennett. Happy. The end of my excursion. Sort of the end. The end for tonight. It is moving to see the lake disappear in the distance knowing this was a major accomplishment for the early miners if they had made it this far.

Lake Bennett

Lake Bennett

“The sky is already purple; the first few stars have appeared, suddenly, as if someone had thrown a handful of silver across the edge of the world.”

Alice Hoffman

One Man's Paradise

Chilkoot Trail: Day 1

The Chilkoot Trail is a popular recreational trail following the footsteps of Tlingit traders and Yukon prospectors for 33 miles crossing the Coastal Mountain Range. Almost 3000 hikers attempt this historic and scenic hike every year, mostly between May and September. In the off-season you may have the trail all to yourself for a number of reasons. First, the weather can be treacherous around Chilkoot Pass with high winds, low visibility, and avalanche risk. Second, the rangers have left the park, so you are on your own. And finally, the White Pass & Yukon Railroad does not run any more, which adds another 10 miles of hiking along railroad tracks to your adventure, unless you were smart and have made arrangements in advance.

LeavesOn October 1st, a rainy day, I set out from Dyea with a backpack that felt way too heavy, anticipating a great experience. During the summer I had hiked the first 7.5 miles several times solo, with friends and clients. I knew what to expect. A steep hill right out of the gates, then a mellow walk along the Taiya river, passing through beaver country,  surrounded by a lush temperate rainforest.

Before I reach the trailhead a concerned local asks I wanted a coffee as a last treat. Isn’t that nice?

BeaverIn the summer this is a lovely stretch with lots of wild flowers, berries, and waterfalls. Tender ferns border the trail, lichen in all colors and shapes everywhere. For a while you walk on boards through beaver habitat just an inch above water level. Sometimes the trail follows an old wagon road, flat and wide. Then it climbs through the forest over knotty roots and slippery rocks. A few days ago, the trail was under water, so that the rangers had to wear hip waders in the first three miles. Now the water has receded, just leaving some muddy patches, great places to look for animal tracks. I don’t see any fresh bear tracks, fine with me.

My backpack feels heavy, but I am sure it’s nothing compared to what the miners and the packers were carrying. At Finnegan’s point I take a break to get out of the rain in one of the more than welcome shelters. My goal for today is Canyon City. I take my time, averaging about 2 miles per hour…

Canyon City was once one of those boom towns along the trail. Today not much is left, except a gigantic steam engine boiler, a dilapidated cabin, a forlorn stove in the woods. Miners with money would have their load transported to the next camp by a cable tramway. Imagine the determination it took to install the heavy machinery here in this wilderness over 100 years ago.

I settle in into the sturdy log cabin at Canyon City campground content with today’s work. My backpack seemed work. I lighten the load cooking dinner and enjoying a cold one.

LeavesSigns of fall are everywhere. Fallen leaves on the ground, in the water, and on the cabin roof. Daylight fades around 8 PM, leaving 12 hours for hiking and 12 for rest, so I thought.

Around 10 PM I hear noise outside the cabin. No, it’s not a bear. It’s Sam with his dog hiking in the dark, trying to catch up with a friend at Sheep Camp, another 5 miles away. This is the third time Sam is hiking the Chilkoot trail. He did it once in 18 hours! The fastest recorded time is under 5:30! Now, that’s not hiking, that’s racing. I would not want to run in bear country.

Well, now it’s time to sleep, and rest up for an easy day tomorrow: Sheep Camp, the last camp before Chilkoot pass.

He to whom the portentous conspiracy of night and solitude and silence in the heart of a great forest is not an unknown experience needs not to be told what another world it all is – how even the most commonplace and familiar objects take on another character. The trees group themselves differently; they draw closer together, as if in fear. The very silence has another quality than the silence of the day. And it is full of half-heard whispers, whispers that startle – ghosts of sounds long dead. There are living sounds, too, such as are never heard under other conditions: notes of strange night birds, the cries of small animals in sudden encounters with stealthy foes, or in their dreams, a rustling in the dead leaves – it may be the leap of a wood rat, it may be the footstep of a panther. What caused the breaking of that twig? What the low, alarmed twittering in that bush full of birds? There are sounds without a name, forms without substance, translations in space of objects which have not been seen to move, movements wherein nothing is observed to change its place. Ah, children of the sunlight and the gaslight, how little you know of the world in which you live!

Ambrose Bierce

Into the Wild

Thoughts on Wilderness – № 2

“We need the tonic of wildness…

At the same time that we are earnest to explore and learn all things,
we require that all things be mysterious and unexplorable,
that land and sea be indefinitely wild, unsurveyed and unfathomed by us because unfathomable.

We can never have enough of nature.”

Henry David Thoreau

Denali National Park management goes one step further than most other parks by promoting their leave-no-trace policy. Backpackers in the park are now, as part of the mandatory safety instruction, advised not to publish or follow GPS-data on their hike in an effort to avoid the creation of man-made trails. “Leave only footprints, take only photographs” may be a popular motto in other parks with designated, and well maintained hiking trails. Not so in Denali National Park.

McKinley Bar Trail, Denali National Park, AK

McKinley Bar Trail, Denali National Park, AK

A few marked trails exist in Denali National Park, mostly around the park entrance. Few backpackers venture far away from the park’s road into the back country of this vast park. Those that do, enjoy the experience of wilderness as described by Thoreau. The management of Denali National Park wants to keep it that way. By preventing the establishment of man-made trails they hope to keep the majority of the park wild and pristine.

Tundra hiking in Denali National Park

Tundra hiking in Denali National Park

“Let the tourist be on his own, and not be spoon-fed at intervals. Let him be encouraged to keep his eyes open, do his own looking and exploring, and catch what he can of the magic of wilderness.” Those were Adolph Murie’s words in the 50’s, opposing a plan to develop trails in Denali National Park. His opinion seemed to have inspired the park’s trail-less philosophy.

This approach provides the unique opportunity for hikers to experience nature in the most profound and intense way.


Find your own path…

Wildlife management in Denali National Park also differs from most other national forest lands and parks, wildlife refuges, and wilderness areas. It’s hands-off. No animals are culled! In the most protected areas there is no hunting, period. In other areas subsistence hunting is allowed, but no guided trophy hunting, thank you very much.

Finally, no private traffic on the park’s one and only road. Just as Edward Abbey suggested. Unfortunately, many other parks look more like drive-through theaters than wilderness.

Into the Wild

A taste of the Chilkoot trail

They came by the thousands...

They came by the thousands…

For ages the Chilkoot trail was used by Tlingit traders to exchange goods with the Athabascans. Chilkoot pass gained notoriety when 30,000 miners descended on the shores of the Upper Lynn Canal attempting the 35 mile trek to Lake Bennett, Canada. The gold diggers came from all over the world, some had sailed all the way from Norway, or New Zealand, circumnavigating the rough seas of South America entering the Inside Passage, landing in Dyea, an unruly boomtown that grew from nothing to more than 10,000 folks within 2 years. A false storefront, some tree stumps from the mile long pier, and slide cemetery are all that is left from the Klondike gold rush days.

Today, the Chilkoot trail is part of the Klondike Gold Rush Historical Park. They say it is the longest outdoor museum in the world, as the miners ditched or lost some of their 2,000 pounds of supplies on the way to the pass. Old cabins, stoves, cans, and other artifacts litter the path to the pass. Hikers pay $50 to hike the trail in 3-5 days, some race it in a day, which drops the price to $5, although running in bear country does not sound like a good idea to me…

Anyways. Before the hiking season starts on June 1, we got a chance to hike the first four miles to Finnegan’s Point. Here is what I got.

Lush fern foliage

Lush fern foliage

Board walkThe trail follows essentially the Taiya River, though steep hill sides force the trail initially up into the coastal rain forest. Lush ferns, devil’s club line the path. Soon, we encounter a board walk passing through beaver country, bear skat on the ground. The bottom of the bog is orange, brown from the tannin in the water. No fish, just beautiful reflections of dead trees, drowned by the beaver dam.

Devil's club, no touching!

Devil’s club, no touching!

Finally, we make it to Finnegan’s Point. In 1898, Pat Finnegan and his five sons built a bridge here across the river with the intent to collect tolls. Eventually the stampeders resisted his efforts to collect the tolls.

Today, there is a shelter, and nice wooden platforms for tents. So much for today. Time to turn back. Late May, spring is in full swing. I have seen the first green, red currants! It’s going to be a good year for high-bush cranberries, can’t wait.